Dublin Area — Pubs

They say that there are over 1,000 pubs in Dublin and that's probably an understatement. Here are a half-dozen to get you started:

Brazen Head, 20 Lr. Bridge St. (tel. 679-5186), near Christ Church, Dublin's oldest pub dating to 1198.

Czech Inn, Essex Gate, Dublin 2, Temple Bar (tel. 671-1535), is Ireland’s first Czech bar, patronized by Czech, Polish, and Slovak regulars, along with curious Irish and American customers. The walls are lined with Czech newspaper clippings, photos, sports posters, musical instruments, and mementos. Established in 2006, it serves Czech soups, meats, breads, dumplings and potato pancakes, as well as Czech spirits and beer, Slovak beer, and Moravian wines, plus Guinness, Jameson and other brands you expect to see in a Dublin pub.

Davy Byrnes, 21 Duke St. (tel. 677-5217), circa. 1873, a Joycean haunt, mentioned in Ulysses.

John M. Keating, Mary & Jervis Sts., Dublin 1 (tel. 828-0102), set north of the Liffey, is a unique pub/restaurant/cafe complex, housed in the former 18th century St. Mary’s Church. With stained glass windows, a huge organ, and a gallery, the building was refurbished and reopened in its present format in 2005 and immediately won the “Best Old Building Award.” Music includes a classical string quartet on Saturday afternoon and love bands on Sunday evenings. Meals are served all day.

M.J. O'Neills, 12 Suffolk St. (tel. 679-3656), opposite the Dublin Tourism Office, features live traditional music on Sundays, and excellent bar food daily, from noon to till 9:30 p.m.

Neary's, 1 Chatham St. (tel. 677-8586), next to Gaiety Theatre, a favorite with stagefolk and theatre-goers.

O’Shea’s Merchant, 12 Lr. Bridge St., Dublin 1 (tel. 679-3797). Set beside the south bank of the River Liffey, this old world pub has long been known for its live traditional music, singing and set dancing nightly.

The Old Stand, 37 Exchequer St. (tel. 677-7220), a sports pub for followers of rugby and Gaelic games.

O'Donoghue's, 15 Merrion Row (tel. 661-4303). Always crowded and smoky, this is the grand-daddy of Dublin's traditional music pubs, just off St. Stephen's Green near the Shelbourne Hotel.

Oliver St. John Gogarty, 57 Fleet St. (tel. 671-1822), is right in the heart of Temple Bar. Named after one of Ireland's leading literary figures, it is known for Irish traditional music and dancing sessions, as well as good food — stews, steaks, seafood, and snacks.

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